Nostalgia has never tasted this scientific—and that’s exactly what makes this Thai gelato shop so unforgettable. And this is the part most people miss: behind those comforting flavors is a mind trained not just in the kitchen, but in the lab.
This story centers on Moom Maam, a Thai-inspired gelato shop that turns classic and regional flavors into something both emotional and experimental. The shop is featured as part of a dining-focused series sharing real visits to restaurants, from overall atmosphere to the can’t-miss items on the menu. It is the kind of place that food lovers seek out when they want something familiar yet completely new.
A scientist behind the scoops
Every flavor at Moom Maam is created by Saran “Darwin” Wai, a trained molecular biologist who chose to channel his scientific background into making ice cream instead of working in a traditional lab. That alone could spark debate: is gelato a form of culinary art, applied science, or both—and does that change how you experience it as a customer? Wai uses his Thai heritage and technical knowledge to build flavors that feel deeply nostalgic for Thai people, while still speaking to the multicultural reality of life in Los Angeles.
Moom Maam didn’t start as a sleek storefront. It began as a humble pop-up stall at Wat Thai, a Thai Buddhist temple in Los Angeles known for its vibrant food scene in the parking lot. From there, Wai’s gelato gained traction and eventually appeared at Smorgasburg in the summer of 2023, exposing his creations to a wider audience of curious eaters. By 2024, Moom Maam had grown into a permanent shop in Torrance, a move that signaled both loyalty from fans and confidence in this ultra-specific style of Thai-inspired gelato.
Nostalgia meets Los Angeles culture
Wai’s biggest mission is to craft flavors that immediately transport Thai customers back to childhood memories, family gatherings, and everyday street snacks. At the same time, he freely plays with ingredients and ideas he encounters as an Angeleno, reflecting the city’s layered mix of cultures. That fusion—rooted in Thai flavors but shaped by Los Angeles—makes his ice cream stand out in a city already packed with serious gelato and ice cream spots.
One of the most striking examples is the Riceberry horchata flavor. This scoop captures the essence of Los Angeles through its cross-cultural DNA: it draws inspiration from the Mexican drink horchata, swaps in Thai rice as the star component, and then transforms the whole idea into an Italian-style gelato. To top it off, it is made by a Thai creator living in LA. It is almost like a flavor map of the city in one bowl. But here’s where it gets controversial: when a flavor blends so many cultures at once, does it honor all of them—or risk feeling like it belongs to none?
Signature flavors you shouldn’t skip
If you are unsure where to start, there are a few flavors that best represent what Moom Maam is all about:
- Riceberry horchata: This is arguably the most “Los Angeles” flavor on the menu, built from overlapping cultural influences. It reinterprets Mexican horchata through the lens of Thai rice and Italian gelato technique, resulting in something familiar yet completely unexpected. For anyone fascinated by fusion food, this scoop alone may justify the trip.
- Fior di coco: This was the very first ice cream Wai developed, and it remains a core part of the menu. It is a vegan coconut milk gelato designed to evoke the kind of coconut ice cream you might buy from a street vendor in Bangkok—ultra-creamy, rich, and packed with genuine coconut depth rather than a faint or artificial taste. Even people who do not usually seek out vegan desserts may find this one surprisingly indulgent.
- Khanom ping: For those looking to explore a flavor that feels distinctly Thai, khanom ping is a standout. It draws inspiration from traditional Thai cookies that are lightly smoky and fragrant. In gelato form, that profile becomes a scoop that is comforting yet unusual, especially for anyone not raised with those cookies.
- Durian and mezcal: This is perhaps the boldest flavor combination on the list, marrying the famously pungent, custardy durian with smoky mezcal. The result is an ice cream that is intense, creamy, and gently sweet, layered with smoke and funk. This flavor raises a big question some diners will disagree on: is using durian and mezcal together a genius move in cross-cultural flavor building, or is it pushing fusion a step too far?
Texture, cones, and how to order
Texture plays a huge role in the Moom Maam experience, not just the taste of the gelato itself. The coconut waffle cone is light and crisp, and it is also gluten-free, making it more accessible to people who avoid gluten but still want the classic cone feel. Choosing to enjoy your scoop in a cone bowl instead of a standard cup lets you experience the interplay of creamy gelato with crackling, coconut-scented crunch.
This attention to detail in texture invites another angle of debate: should “serious” gelato shops focus mostly on pure flavor and temperature, or do playful touches like unique cones make the experience more memorable and fun? Moom Maam clearly leans toward the second option, showing that even a scientific approach to ice cream leaves room for whimsy.
Where to find the shop
Moom Maam’s brick-and-mortar location sits on the first floor of the Del Amo Fashion Center in Torrance, just outside the Macy’s entrance. It is tucked into a quieter corner of the mall, which makes it feel a bit like a hidden gem rather than a chaotic food court stop. For people who enjoy discovering spots that feel “off the main path,” this low-key placement can be part of the charm.
Because it is in a mall rather than a stand-alone street-front space, some may argue that the setting does not match the creativity and craft in the gelato itself. Others might counter that this is exactly what makes it special: a serious, thoughtfully designed dessert shop hiding in plain sight where you might least expect it.
Your turn: what do you think?
This Thai gelato shop raises some big questions about food, identity, and innovation. When a scientist uses lab training to reinvent nostalgic flavors, is that the future of dessert—or does it risk overcomplicating something that is supposed to be simple and comforting? And when one scoop blends Thai, Mexican, and Italian influences, is that beautiful cultural exchange or fusion taken too far?
Do you think flavors like durian-mezcal and Riceberry horchata sound exciting or just strange? Would you rather keep traditional desserts “pure,” or are you all in on this kind of creative mash-up? Share whether you are team classic or team experimental in the comments—where do you draw the line between respectful innovation and going too far with fusion?
